A Perfect 3-Step Tomato Pie - No. 22

My mission to find the best recipe using wonderful summer tomatoes

I don’t know about you, but I feel like I have baked my way through every tomato pie recipe and am still hungry.

“Tomato pie” must be written across my forehead or etched deeply in my soul. I see recipes everywhere each summer and have baked many of them, but honestly, most are a waste of good tomatoes. 

They’re soggy or too rich or just too much trouble. And yet, I want to bake another tomato pie. What is it about tomato pie that keeps me coming back for more?

Crust + tomatoes + gooey, cheesy filling = pleasure

The French have been making savory tarts with tomatoes and other summer produce for a long, long time. If you recall, they gave us quiche and we’re forever grateful. Merci!

But tomato pie isn’t quiche. If you study the recipes that come out of Junior League and community cookbooks, the filling is made of mayonnaise along with some cheese, often onion, and seasonings. I’m not sure where the tomato pie was even born, and while “pie” is usually Midwestern or Pennsylvania Dutch, this tomato pie has “Southern” written all over it.

I can say that because I’m Southern and I’ve spread enough mayonnaise-based pimento cheese and onion dip on my chips through the years to know. But that’s getting off track. I don’t care about tomato pie’s origins as much as I just want to find one that makes me happy.

And doesn’t waste good tomatoes...

3 steps to tomato pie perfection

I just spent a week baking tomato pies. I listened to people talk about tomato pies. And my takeaway is that one tomato pie does not fit all. If I bring a tomato pie to a party, it might not be your cup of tomato pie, but that’s OK. What’s not to like about tomato pie? And we don’t have to agree about it, do we? But that’s another column for another day…

I pulled dozens of cookbooks down from my shelves and came up with about eight recipes to bake, two of which are from my own books, ironically. All but one recipe used mayo, and that outlier called for soft goat cheese. Then my friend Lisa told me about her favorite tomato pie that uses a little Dijon mustard and slices of mozzarella cheese on the bottom of the crust before you layer in the tomatoes. It comes from the New York Junior League cookbook, so pretty highbrow stuff.

Most of the recipes used standard pie pastry, but one crust was made with olive oil. (You freeze the olive oil for several hours until it gets cloudy and firm.) A couple recipes called for a biscuit-type crust using baking powder, and I had high hopes for those, but, meh. One recipe, passed along from my cousin Mary, called for crushed crackers in the crust… as well as dozens of other ingredients, and hours of prep, and no matter how much Mary raved about that recipe, I just couldn’t bring myself to commit a day to tomato pie.

One or two recipes instructed you to sprinkle the sliced tomatoes with salt and let them drain on a rack before assembly - boy, was that a wise tip! But only one recipe was specific on how you should layer the tomatoes and filling in the crust. 

It was like weeding, except I was pulling out the good stuff and leaving the bad. I was hoping to gather wise words of advice so I could just preheat the oven and run with it. 

In the end, I learned that tomato pies have three steps: The crust, the tomatoes, and the filling. Plus, a whole lot of leeway and other little details you can ponder if you want to bake an even better pie.

Don’t fuss about the crust, make sure you’ve got great tomatoes, and keep the filling simple

The crust: You can make your own or use store-bought frozen. It’s up to you. Do place the crust in the oven to pre-bake so you don’t wind up with the dreaded soggy tomato pie. And make sure to prick the crust all over with a fork before it goes in the oven at 400 degrees for about 10 to 12 minutes or until it turns lightly browned. This keeps the crust from ballooning up. You can also line the crust with parchment and fill it with dried beans to weigh down the crust while it pre-bakes if you like. Let the crust cool before filling.

The tomatoes: Choose a variety of colors and sizes for the most beautiful pie. Use yellow, red, and green Zebras if you have them. Make sure the tomatoes are ripe but still firm. And don’t bother with peeling them. Depending on the size of your pan, use about 3 to 4 medium tomatoes or a large one and a couple medium ones. Toss in a few halved cherry tomatoes, too. Slice about 1/4- to 1/2-inch (1/3-inch is perfect) thick and salt and drain on a rack ahead of time while the crust pre-bakes to pull the water out of the tomatoes and prevent sogginess. Blot the tomatoes with a paper towel before assembling.

And the filling: This is where one recipe just can’t make us all happy so there are options. In the recipe below, choose to fill with the popular mayonnaise-based filling or smear on something easy like goat cheese or Boursin, or just use mozzarella cheese.

What’s important is how you layer the tomatoes and filling. You want to do this like stacking a brick wall, with a layer of tomatoes, then some filling to fill in the gaps, then another layer of tomatoes, plus filling, allowing the tomatoes to continue to peek through for the best finished presentation.

It’s the little things that matter in the end

If you have a French tart pan with removable bottom, by all means, pull it out and use it! Or find a frozen pie shell that is not deep-dish. Deep-dish translates to soggy when it comes to tomato pie.

And crank up the oven! I found 400 degrees to be perfect not only for pre-baking the crust but for finishing to bake the pie. It allows the tomatoes to roast a bit, release their juices, and the filling to bubble up and take on some golden color. And color, as we know, equals flavor. 

My mission, my obsession really, has given me more confidence with tomato pie. I’ll be baking them every summer, but now I don’t even need a recipe!

Let me know how this recipe works for you! Or if you already bake a perfect tomato pie, I’d love to hear about it!

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A Perfect Tomato Pie

Instead of the filling below of mayonnaise and cheese, you have two other options: One is to substitute 4 to 5 ounces soft goat cheese or Boursin (plus the seasonings called for in the recipe). Or, do as my friend Lisa does and spread the pre-baked crust with a little Dijon mustard and layer on about 8 ounces of sliced deli mozzarella cheese, plus some fresh basil. This version takes a little longer to bake, so reduce the oven to 350 degrees after pre-baking the crust, add the tomatoes, drizzle with olive oil, and season with oregano and pepper, then bake until bubbly.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Crust:

1 9-inch pie pastry (if frozen, use regular size, not deep-dish)

Filling:

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds good ripe summer tomatoes, sliced 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick

Kosher or sea salt for sprinkling the tomatoes

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 cup shredded Monterey Jack, sharp Cheddar, or a blend of cheeses

1/4 cup minced or thinly sliced sweet onion, like Vidalia

2 tablespoons, or more, chopped fresh basil

Coarsely ground black pepper

Sprinkling of dried oregano, if desired

1. Place a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Prick the pie crust with a fork across the bottom and around the sides. Place the pan in the oven, and bake until lightly browned, about 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, place the sliced tomatoes on a rack set over a sheet pan or wax paper. Lightly salt the tomatoes and let rest while the crust bakes. Once you remove the crust, blot the tomatoes dry with paper towels.

3. For the filling, place the mayonnaise, cheese, onion, basil, pepper, and oregano, if desired, in a small bowl, and stir to combine.

4. Spread a tablespoon of the filling thinly over the bottom of the crust. Place half of the tomato slices on top. Spoon about half of the filling around the tomatoes and barely over their tops. Place the remaining tomatoes in a second layer, placing them on top of the gaps where you’ve spread the filling. Dollop the remaining filling around the tomatoes, and spread the filling barely over their tops. Place the pan in the oven, and bake until bubbly and browned, about 25 to 30 minutes.

5. Remove the pan and let the pie cool to room temperature before slicing.

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Next Tuesday in Between the Layers:

Family Reunions. We’re back at it, gathering near and far with cousins whose names we’d almost forgotten! As awkward as it feels right now, hopefully everyone is vaccinated, the gatherings are outdoors, and rest assured, great recipes come out of family reunions! I’ll share two favorite family reunion recipes with you.

Have a great weekend! And thank so much for subscribing!

Anne