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Rona Roberts's avatar

What a glorious post, Anne, as rich as the gratin itself. Thank you for doing the work of learning and sharing these stories with us.

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Anne Byrn's avatar

Your name was mentioned in the CBS segment, Rona! I used your cornbread recipe and added a little cheese and jalapeno to the top because it’s all cornmeal. No flour. Such a wonderful gluten-free and pure recipe. Love it. And thank you!

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Debbie McLain's avatar

What a great article Anne. I can totally relate to your spending a rainy afternoon reading through this cookbook getting transported to France. One of my favorite things to do is to seek out vintage as well as new cookbooks when I go to book fairs and independent book stores. My husband is about ready to divorce me because the cook books are literally overtaking the house, but I can’t help it I absolutely love reading them.

By the way, I did watch you on CBS the Morning Dish,and I thought it was a fabulous series! You so eloquently gave tribute to all the women who deserved credit for the recipes throughout history that may have never been properly acknowledged. Your thorough research and excellent writing skills are so evident in your beautiful cookbook, which is a work of art and a piece of American Southern history. Your baked goods looked so delicious and inviting on TV, and you looked so beautiful& and a total natural on TV. Congratulations!!

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Anne Byrn's avatar

Ha! Debbie, I know the feeling and am completely over the comment, ‘’you don’t need another cookbook.’’ I don’t ask him anymore. I know I do need another cookbook because I, too, read them for pleasure. Especially the older ones. And thank you regarding CBS. I did splurge and have a hair and makeup gal come to my house the morning of filming. I did all the baking (except the pie, Martha Bowden made that for me!) and styling of the food so I did not hire a food stylist which most people do if on national TV. My face and hair were more important than Rona’s cornbread or my Aunt Elizabeth’s banana pudding. They’re just good!

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Giulia Scarpaleggia's avatar

South Wind Through the Kitchen was the very first book I read from Elizabeth David, the book that convinced me I wanted to pursue a career in food writing. Once in a while I leaf through the book and read one of her essays, just for the comfort it gives me.

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Anne Byrn's avatar

Very nice. I get the feeling it would make Elizabeth David extremely proud to know she influenced others to write about food with such passion.

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Karen Stuhlfeier's avatar

Anne - I just watched your segment on CBS. Congratulations! That was wonderful to watch. So timely to what is going on in our country with women and people of color's histories being scrubbed from government websites. I'm going to keep reading and cooking from your wonderful book, but I'm also going to pay closer attention to how my heritage and where I live has informed how I bake. Someday I'm going to see you in person and get that book signed!

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Anne Byrn's avatar

Sounds good, Karen! Let’s do it. And yes, when you take the time to think in a different way about things you’ve always taken for granted, it’s a moving experience.

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Julie Buchanan's avatar

Hope you have my latest suggestion.As you can see technology is not my strength. Julie

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Julie Buchanan's avatar

How about a short cruise around the British isles with Saga in May? Julie

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Erin Henderson's avatar

A thoroughly enjoyable and absorbing post! I’ve now gone in search of both books. Thank you!

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Anne Byrn's avatar

Maybe you will find another treasure? If so, let us know!

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Erin Henderson's avatar

I’m on the hunt! 🧐

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Julie Buchanan's avatar

I am pleased that Elizabeth David brought you cheer during the recent storm you were enduring.Whilst I do little cooking these days I do have six of Elizabeth’s on my shelf. She certainly had an interesting life and remains in high regard in this country.As always your writing is equally stimulating. Julie

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Anne Byrn's avatar

Julie, I look forward to the day when I can peruse your Elizabeth David cookbooks and we can talk about what you have cooked from her. Hopefully sooner than later!

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Julie Buchanan's avatar

Wonderful.Any chance of joining a cruise around the British Isles in May? Julie.

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Ruth Stroud's avatar

Thanks for another fascinating and beautifully written column, Anne. My mother used to make scalloped potatoes, which I think are fairly close to this recipe, though minus the cheese. I was also excited to learn more about Elizabeth David—now I want this book, of course. Where I’ll fit it in my library, I don’t know, but that’s a small price to pay for a treasure.

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Anne Byrn's avatar

The older I get the more I love the essays about food from MFK Fisher and now Elizabeth David. I want their opinion and am eager for what women in another time and another part of the world had to say about putting food on the table.

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Ruth Stroud's avatar

Anne, I feel the same. Perhaps such writing is another form of comfort food.

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Louise Terzia's avatar

So sweet to have dear John Egerton evoked in your lovely post. I’m looking forward to reading Elizabeth David. Thanks so much!

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Anne Byrn's avatar

John was a brilliant writer and good human. We need him now.

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Denise's avatar

Sounds like a fabulous book by a wonderful woman.

I love cheese in my gratin.

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Anne Byrn's avatar

I second that emotion. Cheese in gratins all day long!

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Denise's avatar

ps. thanks for the link to the CBS interview.

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Faye Levy's avatar

Love Elizabeth David's books. Thank you for this fascinating post.

At Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne in Paris, Chef Chambrette made his gratin dauphinois differently. He simmered the potato slices in milk until tender, then drained them and put them in a gratin dish (same seasonings as yours) and covered them with creme fraiche and baked them. He said this ensures the potatoes cook evenly.

It was absolutely scrumptious!

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Anne Byrn's avatar

Faye, that is such an old school method if my memory serves me. Feel like some of the early scalloped potato recipes also called for simmering the potatoes in milk. I make a fish and potato pie from a British friend and you simmer the potatoes and layer with fish and bechamel then bake. So interesting. Where was Chef Chambrette from in France? I remember him well from La Varenne!

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Faye Levy's avatar

Hi Anne,

How interesting! I had never heard of that method until Chef Chambrette taught it to us.

Glad to know you remember him well. He was from Ile de France.

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gerry furth's avatar

What a marvelous, inspiring and delightful read. I have only recently become other than a yam potato lover thanks to Melissa’s Produce baby potato’s and will definitely try this dish, which will always remind me of this article. Thank you!

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Anne Byrn's avatar

Hope you enjoy! Thanks, Gerry!

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Jolene Handy's avatar

Loved learning all of this about Elizabeth David, what a great post. I really want gratin dauphinois now, A+ comfort food! ❤️

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Anne Byrn's avatar

I think you would have loved ED, Jolene. And yes to comfort food especially now.

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Karen Stuhlfeier's avatar

Thank you for telling us about Elizabeth David. I know of her - but I didn't know too much. I know that Laurie Colwin references her once or twice in Home Cooking and More Home Cooking. Have you read those? I think that you'd like them a lot.

I'll make these potatoes this week. I have a bowl of potatoes from my last CSA share of the winter and I think they'll work well for this. The potatoes are looking a little sad - but heavy cream should perk them up.

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Anne Byrn's avatar

Cream perks anything up, Karen! Well, maybe not everything…but it helps! I have read Laurie Colwin’s Home Cooking. Not the second one. I do love her voice. I’ll make a mental note to write about and explore LC sometime this year.

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Eileen Murphy's avatar

Thank you for sharing this fascinating story, Anne. What a remarkable woman!

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Anne Byrn's avatar

She must have been a lot of fun to have dinner with, Eileen! I am now on the lookout for Elizabeth David recipes.

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